Even though the DCC-ing of the SD7 did not go well (see previous post) this weekend's train work did not all go for naught.
You may remember I had some wiring issues with my J class and that I had ordered the wiring harness to repair it. I did in fact hear back from them and for $45 they would be glad to fix it for me since it was over a year old so the warranty no longer applied.
The parts came in Friday, so I declined their generous offer and installed the wiring harness myself. The new harness had much better quality wiring than the Krapton insulation on the stock set and wasn't really that hard to install. I am happy to say the J class, much like its 1:1 counterpart, is once again operational.
I also got a set of PRR shells for my Bachmann GP7's and they are happily wearing their new livery and have been programmed with their new numbers (8803 and 8303; they were both 8803 until the judicious application of a black marker changed it). I like the way they look, but now I have a pair of custom painted Northern Alberta Railroad GP7 shells that are now surplus.
Friday evening my grandson and I ran some trains, so DCC issues aside it was a pretty good weekend.
Saturday, June 18, 2016
DCC...or maybe not...
The replacement Digitrax decoder came in the mail Friday.
I immediately put it in the SD9.
It ran about as well on the pulse power as the Pacific did, so I called that one a win and turned on the DCC system. The decoder programmed and all seemed well...until it was time to run the beastie.
The lights came on (in the wrong direction) but the locomotive would barely crawl. I checked the programming several times to no avail.
So I pulled it out of the SD9 and put it in a Model Power Mikado. Same deal, it programmed just fine but it wouldn't move the loco at all.
So I pulled it back out and gave up on ever getting a decoder in the SD9.
I've been told I set the speeds wrong, so I'll put it back in the Mikado and try it again when I have time. If it still doesn't work I wonder if Digitrax will take it back again...
I immediately put it in the SD9.
It ran about as well on the pulse power as the Pacific did, so I called that one a win and turned on the DCC system. The decoder programmed and all seemed well...until it was time to run the beastie.
The lights came on (in the wrong direction) but the locomotive would barely crawl. I checked the programming several times to no avail.
So I pulled it out of the SD9 and put it in a Model Power Mikado. Same deal, it programmed just fine but it wouldn't move the loco at all.
So I pulled it back out and gave up on ever getting a decoder in the SD9.
I've been told I set the speeds wrong, so I'll put it back in the Mikado and try it again when I have time. If it still doesn't work I wonder if Digitrax will take it back again...
Friday, June 10, 2016
K4
The Bachmann trucks for the Minitrix K4 have been received and installed.
The slow speed performance is vastly improved, before the locomotive would stall repeatedly unless running at ludicrous speed and even then the headlight would flash like it was sending a message in Morse code. Now as you can see it runs smoothly (albeit noisily) at slow speeds, and I have clocked it at a scale 4mph.
I have a remotor kit on the way, hopefully it will improve the low speed running even further and reduce the noise as well. The remotor kit consists of a RE13 maxon motor (a 7 pole precicion coreless motor with precious metal brushes and commutator and Neodymium rare earth magnets) and a custom built compound gear to replace the single red gear, which should give me smoother operation and better gearing.
The GP7's got a new set of duds as well, they are now sporting Pennsy shells. That means I have a nicely detailed pair of Northern Alberta Railroad shells looking for a new purpose in life.
Additionally I have purchased some Kato Unitrack and some Rokuhan Z scale which will be used to create some T-Trak modules with an elevated Nn3 line. As far as I know this has not yet been done, so it should be a first. It is surprising to me that no one has done it yet, but it should be interesting.
Happy Railroading!
The slow speed performance is vastly improved, before the locomotive would stall repeatedly unless running at ludicrous speed and even then the headlight would flash like it was sending a message in Morse code. Now as you can see it runs smoothly (albeit noisily) at slow speeds, and I have clocked it at a scale 4mph.
I have a remotor kit on the way, hopefully it will improve the low speed running even further and reduce the noise as well. The remotor kit consists of a RE13 maxon motor (a 7 pole precicion coreless motor with precious metal brushes and commutator and Neodymium rare earth magnets) and a custom built compound gear to replace the single red gear, which should give me smoother operation and better gearing.
The GP7's got a new set of duds as well, they are now sporting Pennsy shells. That means I have a nicely detailed pair of Northern Alberta Railroad shells looking for a new purpose in life.
Additionally I have purchased some Kato Unitrack and some Rokuhan Z scale which will be used to create some T-Trak modules with an elevated Nn3 line. As far as I know this has not yet been done, so it should be a first. It is surprising to me that no one has done it yet, but it should be interesting.
Happy Railroading!
Additions
An addition has been made to the blogroll.
Welcome to the High Desert.
And now, since I have one, I'm off to see what he has to say about the ConCor 4-6-4.
Welcome to the High Desert.
And now, since I have one, I'm off to see what he has to say about the ConCor 4-6-4.
Saturday, June 4, 2016
DCC
The local model railroad club, which I joined recently, is a DCC only club. So if I wanted to bring locomotives to play on the display layouts they have to be DCC equipped.
Currently I have a pair of Bachmann GP7's that came from the factory with DCC decoders, but that was all. I decided to go ahead and convert a few. First I selected my Bachmann J class only to find out the wiring going between the tender and locomotive was shot. I have an Email to Bachmann about repairing it, but I've ordered the wiring harness in case I don't get an answer. Their customer service tends to suck a bit.
Next I decided to tackle the LifeLike SD9 that I run on my home layout. Following these instructions (with the exception of completely disassembling the shell, not necessary since it comes off in one piece) I first modified the trucks for improved pickup...which I highly recommend, if you have this locomotive...and then following these instructions (with the exception of modifying the rear weight as described in these instructions) I installed the decoder.
It was then I screwed up. I didn't test it on DC as the Digitrax instructions say to do, I just put it on the programming track and attempted to program it. The system couldn't find the decoder, all it did was blink the lights. The instructions say this is A Bad Thing, so I took the power off immediately. I then tried to run the loco on DC and the lights would just flash once when I turned the throttle up.
I tried disconnecting the motor and then the newly installed LED lights one at a time to no avail, so then I just connected the power wires to alligator clips and connected the decoder directly to the programming track. The system could still not detect the decoder, so either the decoder was bad from the factory or somehow I fried it. Fortunately Digitrax will replace it free, even if I screwed it up. Now THAT is customer service!
So then I turned to my newly acquired Model Power Pacific. It ran great on DC, so why not. Installing a decoder in a Model Power Pacific is a dead simple task as long as you aren't trying to hook the headlights up, and it only took a little time to do. The loco ran forward and backwards with no problems on an oval powered by a cheap train set power pack, so off to the programming track it went!
The programming went smoothly and soon I was happily running the locomotive around the track. The problem is it won't run on DC now. Whenever I try to run it on DC it surges; full power, down to a crawl, then back to full power. My layout DC is a PWM throttle so that may have something to do with it, but it is disappointing to say the least.
And now my best running Pacific on DC is once again the ancient Atlas.
As a side note, I also acquired a new Pennsy locomotive, a Minitrix K4.
I am disappointed to say that it runs just as poorly as Spookshow says it does (I have the one with the red gear, of course), mostly because the two drivers on the fireman's side that are wired for pickup have traction tires on them (!!! Really? You couldn't have put the traction tires on the middle drivers, neither of which are wired for pickup???), but fortunately I found some instructions to make it run better.
I have the Bachmann trucks on order (along with the J class wiring and a couple of Pennsy shells for my GP7s) and as soon as they get here I will install them and hopefully overcome it's power pick up problems. Hopefully the Motorman will return my email and tell me the good news that he has a motor upgrade kit for it as well.
So kind of a mixed bag lately railroad wise, but all in all not too bad.
Currently I have a pair of Bachmann GP7's that came from the factory with DCC decoders, but that was all. I decided to go ahead and convert a few. First I selected my Bachmann J class only to find out the wiring going between the tender and locomotive was shot. I have an Email to Bachmann about repairing it, but I've ordered the wiring harness in case I don't get an answer. Their customer service tends to suck a bit.
Next I decided to tackle the LifeLike SD9 that I run on my home layout. Following these instructions (with the exception of completely disassembling the shell, not necessary since it comes off in one piece) I first modified the trucks for improved pickup...which I highly recommend, if you have this locomotive...and then following these instructions (with the exception of modifying the rear weight as described in these instructions) I installed the decoder.
It was then I screwed up. I didn't test it on DC as the Digitrax instructions say to do, I just put it on the programming track and attempted to program it. The system couldn't find the decoder, all it did was blink the lights. The instructions say this is A Bad Thing, so I took the power off immediately. I then tried to run the loco on DC and the lights would just flash once when I turned the throttle up.
I tried disconnecting the motor and then the newly installed LED lights one at a time to no avail, so then I just connected the power wires to alligator clips and connected the decoder directly to the programming track. The system could still not detect the decoder, so either the decoder was bad from the factory or somehow I fried it. Fortunately Digitrax will replace it free, even if I screwed it up. Now THAT is customer service!
So then I turned to my newly acquired Model Power Pacific. It ran great on DC, so why not. Installing a decoder in a Model Power Pacific is a dead simple task as long as you aren't trying to hook the headlights up, and it only took a little time to do. The loco ran forward and backwards with no problems on an oval powered by a cheap train set power pack, so off to the programming track it went!
The programming went smoothly and soon I was happily running the locomotive around the track. The problem is it won't run on DC now. Whenever I try to run it on DC it surges; full power, down to a crawl, then back to full power. My layout DC is a PWM throttle so that may have something to do with it, but it is disappointing to say the least.
And now my best running Pacific on DC is once again the ancient Atlas.
As a side note, I also acquired a new Pennsy locomotive, a Minitrix K4.
I have the Bachmann trucks on order (along with the J class wiring and a couple of Pennsy shells for my GP7s) and as soon as they get here I will install them and hopefully overcome it's power pick up problems. Hopefully the Motorman will return my email and tell me the good news that he has a motor upgrade kit for it as well.
So kind of a mixed bag lately railroad wise, but all in all not too bad.
Saturday, March 19, 2016
Recently
So I bought another Model Power Pacific.
I got an alert from a model RR group on the Book of Faces about a great deal through Amazon (this is the loco but it is almost 3x the price I paid for it) and since MP's operations have been taken over by MRC I thought maybe, just maybe, MRC has rectified (SWIDT?) some of their QC issues. At any rate, I thought I would give them another chance.
The loco arrived in Amazon fashion, nicely packaged and undamaged. Upon unpacking the loco I was pleasantly surprised to see a knuckle coupler on the tender, which was actually firmly attached to the locomotive. Two points ahead, and this just from opening the box, so apparently MRC has done them some good anyway.
The locomotive went on the track and much to my happy surprise ran all the way around my 11" curves without even once lifting up its front set of drivers (the other two will pop up as soon as they enter the curves). A careful examination of all three locomotives does not reveal any differences in the way they are set up, the drivers seem to move an equal amount on each one and all drivers on all locos are in gauge as measured by a MicroTrains N scale wheel gauge, so I cannot explain why the Lackawanna loco does not lift while the B&O and Chicago & Northwestern ones do.
I put all three locos on the tracks and the Lackawanna loco runs dead even with the B&O (and they both run faster than the Chicago & Northwestern), but it is a bit noisier; I can hear gear whine out of it that is not present on the other two.
After running it in for an hour (30 min frontwards and 30 min backwards, no problems) it was time to see what it would do. This is when I ran into my first issue. The McHenry coupler, which I am not really crazy about because the shank is too long, refuses to couple automatically with the MicroTrains coupler on the front of my Bachmann shorty combine. No matter what I do it will not just back in and couple, I have to twist and wiggle the car and tender to get them to couple.
Once the cars are coupled, however, the loco pulls the entire 6 car string effortlessly. I haven't tried them on my 5 car string of Rivarrosis, this would be a tougher pull since those cars do not roll as freely as the Bachmanns do, but it runs along happily just as it should.
I experimented a bit with replacing couplers and discovered that the MicroTrains Z scale coupler goes right into the pocket vacated by the McHenry, and the screw goes right into the hole as well. Unfortunately the MT Z scale coupler has to be shimmed up to mate, but once done it works great. I don't have a short shank N scale MicroTrains coupler at the moment (one is on the list for the next train shop visit) but as soon as I do I will see if it installs just as easily. For now though the McHenry will do the job.
Since Lackawanna is not one of the roads I model it is not likely that this loco will see much use on my layout for the time being, but of course this may change if I decide to paint over the green on the semi-streamlined running boards and tender. It runs so nicely it would be a shame not to use it, after all.
So in conclusion, yay for knuckle couplers and attached tenders, not so much for noise, nice running and a big YAY for not lifting the front set of drivers on the 11" radius curves. My best running Pacific is no longer an ancient out of production Atlas (although the Atlas is my second best running Pacific).
Because of this locomotive my opinion of Model Power has been upgraded from "meh to negative" to "meh to positive" and I have a feeling that the more I run it the more I will end up liking it. Well done Model Power and MRC, may your partnership continue to pay off.
I got an alert from a model RR group on the Book of Faces about a great deal through Amazon (this is the loco but it is almost 3x the price I paid for it) and since MP's operations have been taken over by MRC I thought maybe, just maybe, MRC has rectified (SWIDT?) some of their QC issues. At any rate, I thought I would give them another chance.
The loco arrived in Amazon fashion, nicely packaged and undamaged. Upon unpacking the loco I was pleasantly surprised to see a knuckle coupler on the tender, which was actually firmly attached to the locomotive. Two points ahead, and this just from opening the box, so apparently MRC has done them some good anyway.
The locomotive went on the track and much to my happy surprise ran all the way around my 11" curves without even once lifting up its front set of drivers (the other two will pop up as soon as they enter the curves). A careful examination of all three locomotives does not reveal any differences in the way they are set up, the drivers seem to move an equal amount on each one and all drivers on all locos are in gauge as measured by a MicroTrains N scale wheel gauge, so I cannot explain why the Lackawanna loco does not lift while the B&O and Chicago & Northwestern ones do.
I put all three locos on the tracks and the Lackawanna loco runs dead even with the B&O (and they both run faster than the Chicago & Northwestern), but it is a bit noisier; I can hear gear whine out of it that is not present on the other two.
After running it in for an hour (30 min frontwards and 30 min backwards, no problems) it was time to see what it would do. This is when I ran into my first issue. The McHenry coupler, which I am not really crazy about because the shank is too long, refuses to couple automatically with the MicroTrains coupler on the front of my Bachmann shorty combine. No matter what I do it will not just back in and couple, I have to twist and wiggle the car and tender to get them to couple.
Once the cars are coupled, however, the loco pulls the entire 6 car string effortlessly. I haven't tried them on my 5 car string of Rivarrosis, this would be a tougher pull since those cars do not roll as freely as the Bachmanns do, but it runs along happily just as it should.
I experimented a bit with replacing couplers and discovered that the MicroTrains Z scale coupler goes right into the pocket vacated by the McHenry, and the screw goes right into the hole as well. Unfortunately the MT Z scale coupler has to be shimmed up to mate, but once done it works great. I don't have a short shank N scale MicroTrains coupler at the moment (one is on the list for the next train shop visit) but as soon as I do I will see if it installs just as easily. For now though the McHenry will do the job.
Since Lackawanna is not one of the roads I model it is not likely that this loco will see much use on my layout for the time being, but of course this may change if I decide to paint over the green on the semi-streamlined running boards and tender. It runs so nicely it would be a shame not to use it, after all.
So in conclusion, yay for knuckle couplers and attached tenders, not so much for noise, nice running and a big YAY for not lifting the front set of drivers on the 11" radius curves. My best running Pacific is no longer an ancient out of production Atlas (although the Atlas is my second best running Pacific).
Because of this locomotive my opinion of Model Power has been upgraded from "meh to negative" to "meh to positive" and I have a feeling that the more I run it the more I will end up liking it. Well done Model Power and MRC, may your partnership continue to pay off.
Saturday, January 2, 2016
Trials and Tribulations
I finally got the DCC setup installed and working.
Installing the system was simple, I installed a DPDT switch connected to the common rail and Atlas track switch panel, connected one side of that DPDT switch to the DC controller and hooked the DCC connection panel up to the other side of the DPDT. That way the layout is either all DC or all DCC so there is no danger of running from one into the other and causing system or locomotive damage.
Second was to program my locos. I have two locomotives, a matched set of Bachmann GP7's, that are DCC equipped. I threw all the track switches except the front main to the center off position and placed the locos one at a time on the front main for programming. One of them went just fine, but the other one didn't want to run. The lights would come on when commanded, but when I pushed the throttle up the loco moved, then the lights dimmed and it slowed to a stop.
I threw the master mode switch back to DC and tried it that way with the same results. I put the first loco back on the tracks and it wouldn't move at all. I threw the master mode back to DCC and the first loco ran like a champ again. Definitely something in its programming then, a problem for another time.
I took the shell off the second locomotive...which was a chore in and of itself, those things are on TIGHT...and removed the decoder. There are two little springy contacts that supply power to the decoder, I bent them out a bit and reinstalled the decoder, and then the loco worked as it should in both DC and DCC.
On to the first loco. I tried a factory reset according to the manual but this did not solve the issue. tried a factory reset on the second loco and then it wouldn't work on DC although it worked like a champ on DCC, just like the first one (and completely opposite of what I wanted). Off to the internets!
The issue, according to the internets, was the decoder dual mode function was set to off. The dual mode function was included in a thing called CV29, whatever that is. More digging reveals a CV is a Configuration Variable, and there is a table that shows what they all do. All very well and good, but how do I know what to set them to? More internet digging!
Fortunately the Digitrax site has some Control Variable (CV) calculators that I was able to use to determine the bit that sets the dual mode (DC/DCC) on or off. As expected, when I checked it the bit was set to off. I programmed them each for dual mode again and once more I am able to run both locos on either DC or DCC as I wish.
In my experimentation I found two of my turnouts aren't quite up to par as the locomotives short on the frogs, so I'll have to work on them a bit, but so far everything is working as it should. One thing that annoys me about this particular setup is I am apparently not allowed to run DC locomotives using the DCC controller. Not a big issue I guess since I am able to switch the master modes over, but if I had a larger layout it might become a factor.
At any rate, the NCE Powercab is working as it should and I'm having fun with it.
Installing the system was simple, I installed a DPDT switch connected to the common rail and Atlas track switch panel, connected one side of that DPDT switch to the DC controller and hooked the DCC connection panel up to the other side of the DPDT. That way the layout is either all DC or all DCC so there is no danger of running from one into the other and causing system or locomotive damage.
Second was to program my locos. I have two locomotives, a matched set of Bachmann GP7's, that are DCC equipped. I threw all the track switches except the front main to the center off position and placed the locos one at a time on the front main for programming. One of them went just fine, but the other one didn't want to run. The lights would come on when commanded, but when I pushed the throttle up the loco moved, then the lights dimmed and it slowed to a stop.
I threw the master mode switch back to DC and tried it that way with the same results. I put the first loco back on the tracks and it wouldn't move at all. I threw the master mode back to DCC and the first loco ran like a champ again. Definitely something in its programming then, a problem for another time.
I took the shell off the second locomotive...which was a chore in and of itself, those things are on TIGHT...and removed the decoder. There are two little springy contacts that supply power to the decoder, I bent them out a bit and reinstalled the decoder, and then the loco worked as it should in both DC and DCC.
On to the first loco. I tried a factory reset according to the manual but this did not solve the issue. tried a factory reset on the second loco and then it wouldn't work on DC although it worked like a champ on DCC, just like the first one (and completely opposite of what I wanted). Off to the internets!
The issue, according to the internets, was the decoder dual mode function was set to off. The dual mode function was included in a thing called CV29, whatever that is. More digging reveals a CV is a Configuration Variable, and there is a table that shows what they all do. All very well and good, but how do I know what to set them to? More internet digging!
Fortunately the Digitrax site has some Control Variable (CV) calculators that I was able to use to determine the bit that sets the dual mode (DC/DCC) on or off. As expected, when I checked it the bit was set to off. I programmed them each for dual mode again and once more I am able to run both locos on either DC or DCC as I wish.
In my experimentation I found two of my turnouts aren't quite up to par as the locomotives short on the frogs, so I'll have to work on them a bit, but so far everything is working as it should. One thing that annoys me about this particular setup is I am apparently not allowed to run DC locomotives using the DCC controller. Not a big issue I guess since I am able to switch the master modes over, but if I had a larger layout it might become a factor.
At any rate, the NCE Powercab is working as it should and I'm having fun with it.
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